This International Women's Day, I'd like to turn your attention to the women of Irish food.
Before the rise of restaurants and the accessibility of dining out, the home was where food engagement took place. In the recent surge of Irish Michelin restaurants, and our growing reputation for food culture, one element has been overlooked. Long before the great chefs and level of fine dining, we have now – the heart of Irish food culture lay in the home.
In the ongoing debate of what Irish cuisine is, we haven’t thought to look inwards, to the routes of our food engagement. From pioneering figures who paved the way to everyday heroines who infused love into their kitchens, the women of Irish food have left an indelible mark on our culinary heritage.
Historical Perspective:
In a society marked by traditions, women navigated challenges, from societal expectations to economic disparities. The home, often considered a woman's domain, saw a vast array of changes from 1950 to 2000. The period saw major social and economic changes, in fertility issues, economic structure and education patterns. Kiely (2022, p.49) discusses these challenges where "high levels of unemployment, large families, wayward husbands, excessive Catholic Church control and poor housing conditions, further conspired to make the lot of the urban housewife or mother, even more challenging".
Pioneering Figures:
Myrtle Allen, Georgina Campbell, Theodora Fitzgibbon, Florence Campbell, and Biddy White Lennon stand as beacons in the Irish culinary landscape. Each has left an enduring legacy, influencing the food of the Irish home through their position in food media. Suddenly the isolation of the home kitchen was opened nationally. They changed the narrative of what food at home was. Image: Florence Campbell's Cookbook, Cover (Campbell, 1984).
Changing Roles Over Time:
From the post-war era to the technological advancements of the new millennium, women's roles in Irish food have evolved.
The period of 1950 to 2000 was considered "a new age of shiny appliances and electrification was revolutionising Irish life at the time" (DID Electrical, 2018). This cultural shift of technology created a modernisation of the kitchen environment. This reduced the time spent on manual laborious tasks and, therefore the time necessary for women to spend within the home, allowing them to work, socialise, and so on.
The lifting of societal barriers, economic shifts, and the embrace of modernity have all played a role in transforming the dynamics of the kitchen. With the lifting of the Marriage Bar in 1979, women were free to work outside the home. This meant a huge rise in convenience foods as women had less time.
This image demonstrates the marketing of these new developments, with the brand ‘Hoover’ suggesting their products are ‘the heart of the home’, for Valentine's Day (Brand New Retro, 2023).
Food as Power and Identity:
At the heart of Irish culinary traditions are the women who have preserved family recipes, passed down cookbooks, and imparted food knowledge through generations. In every simmering pot and baking dish, there lies a connection to the past and a testament to the women who have kept traditions alive.
In the common absence of material possessions to pass on, “the knowledge of food and…recipes became a tool for transmitting cultural traditions but also continuing their personal legacies” (Grover, 2021). This idea of women’s food knowledge, being an intangible material item of passing tradition and legacy is important in the position of women’s engagement with food. The engagement of women and food although forced in many cases through societal norms and expectation, became a legacy of culture, where food knowledge became power, that many times, even till today may have gone overlooked.
Modern Influencers:
Today, a new generation of women continues to redefine the Irish food scene. Chefs, writers, and entrepreneurs bring fresh perspectives and innovative flavours, adding new chapters to the ongoing story of Irish cuisine.
Challenges and Triumphs:
While celebrating their triumphs, we acknowledge the challenges faced by women in the culinary world. From unequal opportunities to breaking through stereotypes, these women have paved the way for a more inclusive and diverse industry.
Looking Ahead:
As we honour the women who have fed our bodies and souls, let us recognize and support the women shaping the future of Irish food. Embrace the diversity of voices and celebrate the culinary contributions of the women in your life.
"Remember the Ladies"
Abigail Adams, 1776 (Adams Family Papers, 2023)
Conclusion:
On this International Women's Day, we raise a toast to the women who for generations fed families of all sizes and created a unique, diverse and comforting cuisine.
This is Irish Food. The Food of The Home.
References
Adams Family Papers. (2023). ‘Letter from Abigail Adams to John Adams, 31 March – 5 April 1776’. Masshist.org [online] Available at: https://www.masshist.org/digitaladams/archive/doc?id=L17760331aa [Accessed on: 16th March 2023].
Brand New Retro. (2023). ‘Hoover Appliances Valentines Day Gifts 1969’. Brandnewretro.ie [online] Available at: https://brandnewretro.ie/2018/02/13/hoover-appliances-valentines-day-gifts-1969/ [Accessed on: 4th May 2023].
Campbell, F. (1984). Florence Campbell’s Cookbook. Dublin: Agri-Books.
Grover, S. (2021). ‘Gender and Food: A Story of Identity and Resistance’. Lsrhistory.wordpress.com [online] Available at: https://lsrhistory.wordpress.com/2021/11/24/gender-and-food-a-story-of-identity-and-resistance/ [Accessed on: 3rd April 2023].
Kiely, T. (2022). The Interplay between the Ordinary and the Extraordinary in Everyday Life: Studies from a Transitioning Ireland. Unpublished PhD thesis. Technological University Dublin.